| :: Free Digital Photography Course & Tips :: |
:: Digital Photography, Take Images Like The Pros ::
Free Digital Photography Course & Tips, They Help You Take Digital Images
With Your Digital Camera Like a Pro, Camera Tips, Free Digital Photography
Lighting Course & Tips, Composition Tips, Digital Photo Processing & More
With Your Digital Camera Like a Pro, Camera Tips, Free Digital Photography
Lighting Course & Tips, Composition Tips, Digital Photo Processing & More
*. Introduction into digital photography, my wife and I have been
professional photographers for many years. There is a big difference between a
snapshot and a photograph. It is not the camera that creates a photograph,
where someone might choose to shoot just a snapshot the photographer will
create a photograph; they have planned for everything to make the shot as
memorable as possible. The professional photographer paints with the light.
The light striking the film be a conventional film are digital is what makes the
photograph. We're not talking about flash by itself but the way the light being
natural or man-made strikes a subject, the background & the overalls saying.
You will learn in this course at different times of the day are better for outdoor
photography. Even when times don't have the perfect light and is not exactly
what you want, you will learn to move your subject and get the desired effects.
You will also learn about the composition of a photograph. You will learn to
plan for every detail to get the best photo possible. You will learn about the use
of thirds to frame your subject. This course be at basic as it may be should
really help the beginning photographer. The advertisers on this site have
excellent products and great pricing. Some offer a great source of
information. We hope these tips helps you.
*. Comparing the digital SLR to the digital point-and-shoot camera.
With the digital SLR you can remove and change lenses for a variety of
situations. As you look through the viewfinder on the SLR cameras you are
looking through a mirrored image of exactly what your composition will look
like. The way the SLR camera work's is it quickly opens and closes the mirror
to allow the image to reach the sensor, digital film. The SLR cameras also give
you complete control over the way the camera perceives the image you are
trying to create. The shutter response on the digital SLR is instantaneous unlike
most of the point-and-shoot cameras. The digital SLR accepts external flash
systems which are very important in creating a quality photographs. You can
also use external flash transmitters and receivers to fire multiple strobe units in
unison. There are too many differences to cover in the short time. On the
other hand most point-and-shoot cameras give you partial control over the way
the camera perceives the image. They take wonderful snapshots but do not
allow you the creativity of the digital SLR cameras. Their shutters depending
on the quality of camera usually are greatly delayed. Some point-and-shoot
cameras can take up to three seconds after you push the shutter button. And
three seconds a toddler can be 15 feet from where he started. Not all point
and shoots are this bad but be sure and research the shutter response time
before purchasing a camera.
*. Choosing a lens for your digital SLR camera. The two most
important things to remember when choosing a removable lens for your digital
SLR is the focal length and the aperture. The focal length is the distance from
the lens element to the sensor, digital film. The focal length determines the
angle of view of the camera, a lens say 15 mm would be considered a wide-
angle lens and give you a very wide field of view. In comparison to a 500 mm
lens will give you a very narrow field of view. Let's look at a 50 mm F1 .4 this
is known as a prime lens are fixed lens. There is no zoom factor. I myself
prefer Canon cameras and lenses though there are many on the market that are
just as good. The best lenses that Canon makes are the L-series and the
choice of most professional photographers. These lenses can be very
expensive but are well worth it when quality counts. My first choice of lenses
would be a prime lens the 50 mm either an F1 .2 are the F1 .4, my second
choice would be the Canon L-series 24/70 mm F2 .8 this is the workhorse of
most professional photographers. Third choice would be the Canon L-series
70/200 mm F2 .8 and a wide-angle lens maybe 15 mm are the 17 to 35 mm.
*. Cameras including the Canon 40D or the xsi. Are not full frame
cameras. This means a sensor is not a full 35mm sensor that is found on some
of the other higher end cameras from the Canon 5D and up. Because of this
there is a multiplication factor of 1.6 this means if you use a 50 mm lens on the
40D it would be same as using a 80 mm lens on the 5D (1.6 x 50 = 80). When
choosing lenses keep this in mind where as a 15 mm lens would be considered
a very wide field of view on the 5D camera this would relate to a 24 mm lens
on the 40D camera. This may not seem like much but it is when you look at
the final results.
*. Using the ISO on your camera. If you are using a setting of 100 ISO
this will require more light to transfer the image to the sensor, digital film. This
results in a longer shutter speed fan less than a let's say 400 ISO setting. The
lower setting of 100 ISO will give you much more vibrant colors and less
camera noise than let's say the 400 ISO. ISO and a digital camera refers to the
amount of artificial boost to the sensor, digital film. The onboard computer
artificially changes contrast and brightness. Camera noise is the same thing as
graininess on a film camera. Acceptable pictures can be taken with up to 400
ISO. When enlarged though the camera noise is multiplied and very noticeable.
*. Understanding the f-stop-or-aperture. The f-stop is the size of the
aperture or opening of the shutter on the camera. The smaller the number of
the aperture say F2.8 is a larger diameter of shutter opening thus allowing a
larger amount of light into the camera. The larger the number of the aperture
say F22 is a much smaller opening and a lower amount of light is allowed to
reach the camera. The whole number f-stops are as follows F1.0, F1.4, F2.0,
F2.F8, F4.0, F5.6, F8.0, F11.0, F16, F22, and F32 most SLR cameras allow
one half to one quarter increments between these stops.
*. Understanding exposure. Exposure is the amount of light that reaches
the sensor, digital film. This is determined in two ways number one. His
shutter speed, this is the amount of time that the light is exposed to the sensor,
digital film. The second way to determine this is the size of the aperture or f-
stop, and aperture setting of an F1 .4 allows a great deal of light to fall on the
sensor and a short amount of time. This would determined this lens to be a fast
lens. On the other hand at the far end of the scale a F32 allows only a minute
amount of light to reach the sensor. This results in the need of a much longer
shutter speed. The advantage of the smaller aperture allows the photographer
to bring everything in focus in his photograph, but the use of a tripod to steady
the camera is almost always a necessity. A F32 aperture would be ideal for
landscapes etc… on the other hand the 50 mm F 1.2 is a ideal portrait lens.
*. Understanding shutter speed. Your shutter speed is the amount of time
the lens is open allowing light to reach the sensor, digital film. One 60th of one
second would appear as a whole number in your viewfinder { 60 }. When you
are shooting pictures of people, animals etc… a shutter speed of one 60th of
one second are higher is required. Any slower your subject will become
blurred if the photographer are the subject moves in the slightest. This can be
overcome to an extent with the use of image stabilized lens and tripods. This
will help the photographer to steady the camera but does not eliminate the blur
of motion caused by the subjects movement. When looking in your viewfinder
and you see { “0.6 } this would translate to 6/10 of a second. All this must be
taken into account when calculating the desired results of your photograph. As
for sports photography a shutter speed of one 500th of a second or faster is
required. This will freeze a moving athlete o object. Shutter speeds like this
require the faster lenses in most cases. This all is contingent with the amount
of available light. On a very bright sunny day extremely fast shutter speeds
can be combined with a smaller aperture than let's say on a cloudy day. The
art of photography is the manipulation of light to produce an image on the
sensor, digital film.
*. Understanding the depth of field DOF. Your depth of field is
controlled by your focal length, distance to the subject and the aperture settings
on your camera. Let's use the example of a 50 mm F1 .4 prime lens. Most
photographers prefer this type of lens for portrait work because it has a very
short depth of field. This allows the photographer to focus on the subjects eye
and that point will be the sharpest in the photograph. In contrast the
background of the photograph will be blurred thus focusing and drawing the
viewer to the subjects eyes which are the most important part of any portrait.
In contrast let's say you are using a 200 mm lens and you are shooting at a
stop of F11. This allows you to move farther away from your subject creating
a longer depth of field. This narrows the field of view that you see through
your camera but brings more things into focus. This is great for travel
photography or you want to emphasize the background and still have your
subject and focus. So remember a larger the aperture the smaller the f-stop
number is and the shorter the depth of field is. The smaller the aperture the
larger the f-stop number is and the deeper the depth of field becomes.
professional photographers for many years. There is a big difference between a
snapshot and a photograph. It is not the camera that creates a photograph,
where someone might choose to shoot just a snapshot the photographer will
create a photograph; they have planned for everything to make the shot as
memorable as possible. The professional photographer paints with the light.
The light striking the film be a conventional film are digital is what makes the
photograph. We're not talking about flash by itself but the way the light being
natural or man-made strikes a subject, the background & the overalls saying.
You will learn in this course at different times of the day are better for outdoor
photography. Even when times don't have the perfect light and is not exactly
what you want, you will learn to move your subject and get the desired effects.
You will also learn about the composition of a photograph. You will learn to
plan for every detail to get the best photo possible. You will learn about the use
of thirds to frame your subject. This course be at basic as it may be should
really help the beginning photographer. The advertisers on this site have
excellent products and great pricing. Some offer a great source of
information. We hope these tips helps you.
*. Comparing the digital SLR to the digital point-and-shoot camera.
With the digital SLR you can remove and change lenses for a variety of
situations. As you look through the viewfinder on the SLR cameras you are
looking through a mirrored image of exactly what your composition will look
like. The way the SLR camera work's is it quickly opens and closes the mirror
to allow the image to reach the sensor, digital film. The SLR cameras also give
you complete control over the way the camera perceives the image you are
trying to create. The shutter response on the digital SLR is instantaneous unlike
most of the point-and-shoot cameras. The digital SLR accepts external flash
systems which are very important in creating a quality photographs. You can
also use external flash transmitters and receivers to fire multiple strobe units in
unison. There are too many differences to cover in the short time. On the
other hand most point-and-shoot cameras give you partial control over the way
the camera perceives the image. They take wonderful snapshots but do not
allow you the creativity of the digital SLR cameras. Their shutters depending
on the quality of camera usually are greatly delayed. Some point-and-shoot
cameras can take up to three seconds after you push the shutter button. And
three seconds a toddler can be 15 feet from where he started. Not all point
and shoots are this bad but be sure and research the shutter response time
before purchasing a camera.
*. Choosing a lens for your digital SLR camera. The two most
important things to remember when choosing a removable lens for your digital
SLR is the focal length and the aperture. The focal length is the distance from
the lens element to the sensor, digital film. The focal length determines the
angle of view of the camera, a lens say 15 mm would be considered a wide-
angle lens and give you a very wide field of view. In comparison to a 500 mm
lens will give you a very narrow field of view. Let's look at a 50 mm F1 .4 this
is known as a prime lens are fixed lens. There is no zoom factor. I myself
prefer Canon cameras and lenses though there are many on the market that are
just as good. The best lenses that Canon makes are the L-series and the
choice of most professional photographers. These lenses can be very
expensive but are well worth it when quality counts. My first choice of lenses
would be a prime lens the 50 mm either an F1 .2 are the F1 .4, my second
choice would be the Canon L-series 24/70 mm F2 .8 this is the workhorse of
most professional photographers. Third choice would be the Canon L-series
70/200 mm F2 .8 and a wide-angle lens maybe 15 mm are the 17 to 35 mm.
*. Cameras including the Canon 40D or the xsi. Are not full frame
cameras. This means a sensor is not a full 35mm sensor that is found on some
of the other higher end cameras from the Canon 5D and up. Because of this
there is a multiplication factor of 1.6 this means if you use a 50 mm lens on the
40D it would be same as using a 80 mm lens on the 5D (1.6 x 50 = 80). When
choosing lenses keep this in mind where as a 15 mm lens would be considered
a very wide field of view on the 5D camera this would relate to a 24 mm lens
on the 40D camera. This may not seem like much but it is when you look at
the final results.
*. Using the ISO on your camera. If you are using a setting of 100 ISO
this will require more light to transfer the image to the sensor, digital film. This
results in a longer shutter speed fan less than a let's say 400 ISO setting. The
lower setting of 100 ISO will give you much more vibrant colors and less
camera noise than let's say the 400 ISO. ISO and a digital camera refers to the
amount of artificial boost to the sensor, digital film. The onboard computer
artificially changes contrast and brightness. Camera noise is the same thing as
graininess on a film camera. Acceptable pictures can be taken with up to 400
ISO. When enlarged though the camera noise is multiplied and very noticeable.
*. Understanding the f-stop-or-aperture. The f-stop is the size of the
aperture or opening of the shutter on the camera. The smaller the number of
the aperture say F2.8 is a larger diameter of shutter opening thus allowing a
larger amount of light into the camera. The larger the number of the aperture
say F22 is a much smaller opening and a lower amount of light is allowed to
reach the camera. The whole number f-stops are as follows F1.0, F1.4, F2.0,
F2.F8, F4.0, F5.6, F8.0, F11.0, F16, F22, and F32 most SLR cameras allow
one half to one quarter increments between these stops.
*. Understanding exposure. Exposure is the amount of light that reaches
the sensor, digital film. This is determined in two ways number one. His
shutter speed, this is the amount of time that the light is exposed to the sensor,
digital film. The second way to determine this is the size of the aperture or f-
stop, and aperture setting of an F1 .4 allows a great deal of light to fall on the
sensor and a short amount of time. This would determined this lens to be a fast
lens. On the other hand at the far end of the scale a F32 allows only a minute
amount of light to reach the sensor. This results in the need of a much longer
shutter speed. The advantage of the smaller aperture allows the photographer
to bring everything in focus in his photograph, but the use of a tripod to steady
the camera is almost always a necessity. A F32 aperture would be ideal for
landscapes etc… on the other hand the 50 mm F 1.2 is a ideal portrait lens.
*. Understanding shutter speed. Your shutter speed is the amount of time
the lens is open allowing light to reach the sensor, digital film. One 60th of one
second would appear as a whole number in your viewfinder { 60 }. When you
are shooting pictures of people, animals etc… a shutter speed of one 60th of
one second are higher is required. Any slower your subject will become
blurred if the photographer are the subject moves in the slightest. This can be
overcome to an extent with the use of image stabilized lens and tripods. This
will help the photographer to steady the camera but does not eliminate the blur
of motion caused by the subjects movement. When looking in your viewfinder
and you see { “0.6 } this would translate to 6/10 of a second. All this must be
taken into account when calculating the desired results of your photograph. As
for sports photography a shutter speed of one 500th of a second or faster is
required. This will freeze a moving athlete o object. Shutter speeds like this
require the faster lenses in most cases. This all is contingent with the amount
of available light. On a very bright sunny day extremely fast shutter speeds
can be combined with a smaller aperture than let's say on a cloudy day. The
art of photography is the manipulation of light to produce an image on the
sensor, digital film.
*. Understanding the depth of field DOF. Your depth of field is
controlled by your focal length, distance to the subject and the aperture settings
on your camera. Let's use the example of a 50 mm F1 .4 prime lens. Most
photographers prefer this type of lens for portrait work because it has a very
short depth of field. This allows the photographer to focus on the subjects eye
and that point will be the sharpest in the photograph. In contrast the
background of the photograph will be blurred thus focusing and drawing the
viewer to the subjects eyes which are the most important part of any portrait.
In contrast let's say you are using a 200 mm lens and you are shooting at a
stop of F11. This allows you to move farther away from your subject creating
a longer depth of field. This narrows the field of view that you see through
your camera but brings more things into focus. This is great for travel
photography or you want to emphasize the background and still have your
subject and focus. So remember a larger the aperture the smaller the f-stop
number is and the shorter the depth of field is. The smaller the aperture the
larger the f-stop number is and the deeper the depth of field becomes.
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